Goodness, we do love a nice buffet, and this one is particularly nice (if notably super-expensive). It’s thoughtful and artful, starting with the Alice in Wonderland–evoking atrium styled with towers of fruit flowers and foliage and even some natural light. Don’t worry if you don’t score one of the few tables set there; it’s a bit far from the food lines, and you want to be close to the action, after all. Look for such items as jerk chicken, wood-fired pizza, honey-glazed pork, nice little salmon rolls, five kinds of ceviche, sweet Kansas City–style barbecue, and tandoori chicken among the stations, which include Mexican, Southern, seafood, and Italian. Desserts are superior to those at probably all the other buffets, in construction and in taste, giving the impression that a pastry chef is active on the premises. Don’t miss the mini floating islands, the unusual tiramisu, the excellent chocolate mousse and ice creams, and even a plate full of madeleines.
- Rick Garman