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A tiny cay, 4 sq. km (1 1/2 sq. miles) of land, Mayreau is a privately owned island shared by a hotel and a little hilltop village of about 250 inhabitants. It's on the route of the mail boat that plies the seas to and from St. Vincent. It's completely sleepy unless a cruise ship anchors offshore and hustles its passengers over for a lobster barbecue on the beach.