The building, from the late 1800s, has seen changes—it was a popular hotel a century ago, when the neighborhood was known for its market, and when trade gave out, it became a private hospital. In 2015, developers enlisted the help of some trendy restaurateurs and designers to bring it wholly up to date. Now the ground-floor brasserie and bar, which open onto a pedestrian street, are crowded with stylists and other plugged-in people, but the rooms upstairs are not too haughty for a vacationer. In fact, they're among the fresher rooms in Paris right now. Little desks, marble and wood touches throughout, LED TVs, ample Wi-Fi—they're modernized but with little nods to the past like pedestal sinks and vintage-style fixtures in the cheerful and pristine bathrooms. The least expensive rooms (Classic) have showers and not tubs, and may face the glass-roofed courtyard, and the buffet breakfast, taken in the restaurant that was packed the night before, is stocked with quality cheese and meats. As for location, that's spectacular—in a convenient nexus not far north of Les Halles that's within walking distance to the Marais, Notre Dame, and the Louvre.
- Jason Cochran