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Eleven kilometers (6 3/4 miles) east of St-François is the rocky headland of Pointe des Châteaux, the easternmost tip of Grand-Terre, where the Atlantic meets the Caribbean. You'll see cliffs sculpted by the sea into dramatic castlelike formations, the erosion typical of France's Brittany coast. The view is panoramic. At the top is a cross erected in the 19th century.

You might want to walk to Pointe des Colibris, the extreme end of Guadeloupe. From here you'll have a view of the northeastern sector of the island, and to the east a look at La Désirade, an island that has the appearance of a huge vessel anchored far away.

Pointe des Châteaux has miles of coved white-sand beaches. Most of these are safe for swimming, except at the point where the waves of the turbulent Atlantic encounter the tranquil Caribbean Sea, churning up the waters. Since there are no hotels here, you can come just for the day to enjoy the beaches.

Nude Trysting -- This part of Guadeloupe is studded with wind-carved coves. At Anse Tarare, the Caribbean Sea meets the Atlantic Ocean. From the signposted parking lot along the Route de la Pointe des Châteaux, you'll see a narrow pathway leading through scrub to the sea and Anse Tarare. If you want, you (and your loved one) can strip down here. Of course, it's wise to bring the makings of a French beachside picnic -- a bottle of chilled rosé, a wheel of brie, and a freshly baked baguette.