I certainly am not an expert at travelling in this ex Yugoslav Republic, but I will say that very few travel experiences have shaped my life more than a daytrip to Mostar in 2006. We were staying in Dubrovnik, Croatia and took the opportunity to take a bus for the day into the city which was still so heavily damaged by the civil war.
For a Western tourist who has never experienced war, it shook me to see its results. To hear about snipers, and makeshift cemetaries filling up the parks, to walk by buildings still destroyed or pockmarked by artillery and to see the main source of sales be the fashioning of different kind of artillery or rifle shells being fashioned into art... At the time, you still couldn't deviate much into the countryside for fear of landmines.
It was all that, and yet the single thing that most struck me, was the very happy young lady that was our tour guide. Everywhere around us life was going on. There were people at cafes, divers enticing (scamming :) ) tourists at the recently reconstructed famous bridge...I was struck by awesome power of humanity to recover..